Ok, so that may have a few too many syllables to fit into Carmen San Diego’s theme song, but if you try hard enough you can kind of force it.
We’re halfway through London Fashion Week now, and I’m still looking for a distinct trend for geographical influences. Across the board there have been many collections with obvious references – India at Neem Khan, China at Jason Wu, Japan at Proenza Schouler – but nothing has really stood out as a repeating trend. I’ll continue to keep my eye out, but for now here are two other countries to draw inspiration from.
Christian Cota showed a small collection with rich textures, patterns, and colors inspired by Mexico back in New York Fashion Week:
Temperley London showed a Russian collection that struck an interesting balance between folkloric references and the details of a soldiers’ uniform. I need one of those hats!
In the wake of NYFW Fall ’12, I wanted to include some of my favorite shows that didn’t get to be featured (or, at least, not enough) in my trends posts.
and Ralph Lauren:
Every Fall season, there’s one question on everyone’s minds. What about the coats? Well, for 2012 there are two huge trends gracing the runways. Meet the leather shearling coat and the blanket coat.
at Helmut Lang
and blanket coats
at Michael Kors:
and Rag and Bone:
So, it hasn’t even been a week yet and already we have trends for textiles and colors, but what about prints? Prints have had huge trends these past few years (especially when it comes to mixing them), so of course I’ve been keeping an eye out for which direction they’re headed in now. It seems to be – and I may be making up a fashion term here, but I’m going to go with it – wallpaper prints. You know the kind. It’s a small, repetitive pattern, like what you’d find in upholstery fabric or covering your walls. Maybe I should just let the pictures do the talking from three of my favorite collections to showcase it so far:
Chris Benz (who showed another stunning collection and will probably have his own post in the near future):
Now all we need is a decade (I guess I’m feeling a general sense of 40s sophistication, but no obvious references to silhouettes or styles) and a geographical location (but if we’re trusting Jason Wu and Zac Posen, that seems to be the Far East) to complete our bullet points. It’s definitely an exciting start…
Another big trend that I’ve spotted so far in the Fall ’12 fashion season (along with new and exciting ways to wear leather) comes in the way of color. Nearly every designer has shown an outfit or two (or twelve) in a dark shade of red, ranging from raspberry all the way to plum. It is, without a doubt, The Color for Fall, and since that is my favorite color group I am a very happy camper.
Rag and Bone:
Wes Gordon (and the most amazing coat ever):
Charlotte Ronson, head to toe:
The Fall 2012 shows are in full swing with NY Fashion Week beginning last Thursday. While it’s unusual for trends to emerge this early in the season, I am already seeing some huge consistencies between the shows. My favorite? So far, leather is as ubiquitous as fur was for the past two Fall seasons, and designers are going above and beyond reinventing the leather jacket. They have been showing some impressive and inventive ways on how to wear leather this year, and it’s all in the details.
Up first: Hervé Léger by Max Azria. I cannot get enough of his incredible leather harnesses effortlessly incorporated into his designs. It was difficult narrowing it down to just a few highlights:
Theyksens’ Theory showed leather midi skirts:
Derek Lam infused his sweet secretary looks with a more sensual edge by adding leather pieces:
Alexander Wang sent disarming highly structured leather pieces down the runway in a sharp turn away from his usual sportswear aesthetic – a change amplified by the eerie surgeon-mask-like collars that accompanied many of the looks
Others took a more classic approach – DKNY’s, for example, showed jackets and dresses that you could easily spot on the city’s streets for years – but these collections have so far stood out among the leather-heavy showings so far. I’m looking forward to seeing if the trend will spread, and especially how it could be interpreted overseas.
Most people consider New York Fashion Week the start of the fashion season, but actually the mayhem has already begun. Redheaded step-children of the fashion world are already showing their goods, and Men’s Fashion Week and Sao Paulo Fashion Week are currently on deck. I’ve been surprised to find some gems in the Brazilian collections (people wear clothes in Brazil other than bikinis?), including two standout shows from Samuel Cirnansk and FH for Fause Haten.
Cirnansk’s show was a flutter of plumage in a theatrical swan-inspired event. In contrast to the standard of a stark runway in Sao Paulo, Cirnansk seems to be the McQueen of Brazil with his dramatic presentations. (Check out the beginning of his last show, where he sent models that were bound and gagged out in bridal gowns.) Most of these looks are a bit derivative of more established designers like McQueen, Chanel, and de la Renta (not to mention Rodarte’s costume design for Black Swan) but the creations were nonetheless exquisite.
FH for Fausten combined tropical prints and colors and Brazilian sensuality with a slinky Italian silhouette. The most surprising aspect of the collection was the abundance of fur in wraps, stoles, and cowls, but it’s pulled off so flawlessly you’d think it was from the depths of Siberia. The sophistication of the draping and tailoring present in the show hints that Fausten may be poised to become a more globally recognized name.