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The Galliano and The Tramp (A Look at Men’s Fashion Week)

June 30, 2010

I tend not to pay much attention (or any at all, really) to Men’s Fashion Week. I’m not a man, I have a sneaking suspicion that most men don’t pay attention to it either so I don’t see it as much of a trend predictor, and even if they did what designers show up there is even more unaccessible and unrealistic to adapt to real life than what they show for women. If it was a line of men dressed in suits, maybe I’d watch a show or two, but there are only so many suits to design. Instead, models end up wearing something like this:

Yohji Yamamoto, Spring '11

But, this season a few collections have been catching my eye. First was the surprisingly wearable Junya Watanabe, who showed a collection with a fun nautical theme. There were some wonderful jackets, and I loved the shoes. The cuffed pants were a cool trend that I think might actually have the ability to take off on the sidewalk, but we’ll see. It would be an interesting timeline of a trend with the boys borrowing from the girls, who were borrowing from the boys with the rolled up boyfriend jeans of late.

Junya Watanabe, Spring '11

I also thought that Dsquared’s casual collection was pretty tame and realistic. I thought the pants were an awkward fit, but the seventies styling was a cool take on Americana. In the later part of the collection, they had some fun with color that I wouldn’t mind catching on. Not like I can see any of my male friends wearing mint green shorts, but it was nice to see a break from the traditional menswear palate. And then, there were the bathing suits…

Dsquared, Spring '11

Gucci brought us a touch of normalcy, showing a collection mostly of suits. The trend is clear: the fit is slim, the trousers are narrow, and the jackets are form-fitting. For casual wear, apparently, the shorts are short and the shirts are flowery. I do not approve.

Gucci. Spring '11

The collection that made me really smile, though, (except for the section that made me feel like I was watching gay porn) was John Galliano’s. Needless to say, it’s not like it won points in the wearability category, but I thought it was fun and clever. Opening the show was a group of models dressed to look like Charlie Chaplin and Buster Keaton. There were even some theatrics, with the first Chaplin tumbling out from the clock backdrop. The stunt was apparently supposed to showcase Galliano’s take on proportion in menswear, tipping his hat to Chaplin’s shrunken jackets and baggy pants as an exaggerated view of what he hopes to see.

John Galliano, Spring '11

One Comment leave one →
  1. James permalink
    July 1, 2010 3:29 pm

    I don’t mind some of the looks, but think I’ll just be sticking to the t-shirts

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