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Boobies and Hoods at Haider Ackermann

October 1, 2011

So, I know I didn’t post anything from the London or Milan shows but, to be honest, my initial reaction to the Spring shows of boredom hasn’t been swayed very far. There have been a lot of very pretty shows, but they have all been oh so very safe, and I can’t really come up with anything to say about them. (Although, I have been taking notes of emerging trends, and I will post those once Paris’ week is over.) Even one of the most anticipated shows of the season – Dior, sans Galliano and an officially named successor – was just perfectly Dior, and I mean that not in a great way. It was beautiful and chic and I loved pretty much everything that came down the runway, but it all felt like something I had seen many times before from them.

Haider Ackermann was the other designer I was most excited about in the Paris shows. He was one of my favorites from last season, and since he had just recently popped up on my radar I was looking forward to seeing what he would come up with. Overall, it was alluring, but did take on the feel of a Fall show more than something for Spring. It was interesting to see the main notes of his last show – glamour, sensual draping, rich gem tones – broken down to show more of a harder edge, starting with a collection of Bowie-esque suits and continuing on to slouchy trousers and jackets and barely-covered breasts, either with straps and panels slipping down the shoulders, or with completely sheer tops and bodices. His silhouettes were oversized and exaggerated, as opposed to last season’s sleek and sophisticated. One of my favorite themes throughout the show were the hoods because, damn, do I love a dress with a hood. These looks had such a deliciously Gothic, apocalyptic warrior feel to them when shown in black, and yet an ethereal ghostly vibe when shown in color. I’m hoping this will trickle down to the accessible clothing market, because I’ve been searching for a hooded dress for years and have so far had no such luck.

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